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Since I started
to play Afro-Cuban rhythms I dreamt to travel to Cuba. Cuba
interests me heavily. I talked to Cubans and visitors who have
been to cuba. I read books about the history and current
situation of Cuba. I watch all our TV reports about the cultural,
social, economical and geographical aspects of Cuba. Still I know
too little about Cuba. That was one reason why I wanted to visit
Cuba: to get my own impressions and learn more about Cuba. I also
started to learn Spanish. I want to be able to communicate with
the Cubans (at least at a basic level).
But most important: I wanted to hear the fantastic Cuban music
live at the source where it originated.
Cuba is the destination that all true salsa lovers must visit at least once in their life...
When I planned my musical
pilgrimage to Cuba several questions arose, like:
- while staying in Havanna only for one week, will I be lucky to
catch some live performances?
- at which locations and on which days of the week are the
concerts typically?
- how can I find out the concert dates in Havanna? Simply ask the
people at the hotel reception?
- tips for hotels in Havanna?
- which travel company should I choose?
I want to share some of my experiences with you. And I wanted to
give some practical tips for those who want to travel to Cuba.
I spent 2 weeks in Cuba in May 1997. The first
week I made a round-trip (with a group) through Havana, Pinar del
Rio, Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Santa Clara where I could get a good
overview of the nice landscapes and towns.
Then I spent 3 days on the white beaches of
Varadero. I stayed in the lovely spanish Hotel "Sol Palmeras".
For the last days I was in Havana again to
experience the fascinating atmosphere of this city. That must
have been one of the most beautiful cities in the world!
But Old Havana is in a terrible condition. Many of the old houses
are in danger to collapse. There is not enough money to renovate
them. It is alarming that the people have to live in these rotten
buildings.
In Cuba of course you will
hear a lot of Son and Salsa. Each restaurant or bar has its small
Son group of 2, 3 or more musicians. In the hotels you will hear
bigger bands. And then at night I was happy to hear, see and
dance to the world's famous Cuban orchestras.
In
the "Palacio de la Salsa" (Hotel Riviera, Havana Vedado)
I heard "David Calzado y su Charanga Habanera" and
"Manolito y su Trabuco". In the "Salon Rojo"
of Hotel Capri I saw "Manolin el Medico de la Salsa".
It was fantastic! But I was surprised: at the end the show
finished without an encore and the audience apparently did not
want to hear more? Entrance (and drinks) is not cheap: 15 - 20 US
Dollars (and Cubans must pay USD, too). The shows start very late
between 11h and midnight.
Of course I also
saw the great Tropicana show. The women do not dance
"topless". They need not present naked skin; instead
their beauty, dance and rhythm is the attraction!
I heard of other places for live concerts in Havana, which I had no time to try:
(CL) = Remarks by Curtis
Curtis' Tip: listen to Radio Taino everyday from 5-7 PM for
"De 5 a 7" which runs down everything going on that
night.
(L) = Remarks by Lisa, vgdesign@primenet.com.
Lisa's tip: Venues for Los Van Van, Medico de Salsa, etc. are
always posted on a hand-written sign on Calle 23 (La Rampa) at L
right across from Copelia. That's the best way to find out!
Roberto Antonio Barrueto-Cabello
If it's salsa you want, La Habana is a good place it seems.
Consult the Lonely Planet Guidebook (I'm sure someone will have
it) and you'll be all right. I'd also like to suggest the
Tropical which usually has good groups. For traditional fare gt
to: restaurants, bars, the street, outside your front door. I
know of one Casa de Trova in Centro Habana I believe on San
Lazaro. I'm pretty sure there is another one in Vedado. The Casa
de la Amistad (on Paceo between 17 and 19) has groups groups
every Tuesday I think (I saw the Septeto Nacional de Ignacio
Pineiro to give you an idea of who plays there). I'm not much of
a nightclub man so I can't help you there, although I'm told that
El Amanecer is pretty good: AC, not many tourists and fairly
cheap. I like the Trinidad scene very much because there's so
much going on in a very compact area. The Casa de Trova has stuff
every night, and there is a newly opened Casa de Musica all right
around the Plaza Mayor (admission $1 usually). Sometimes there's
stuff going on in one location near La Canchanchara (sp.?); I
forget the name but it's and open air thing and has lots of cans
hanging from clotheslines. La Canchanchara always has the same
band going for the busload of tourists. They're pretty good and
the lead singer's cute too. That's all that comes to mind. Enjoy
your trip.
For another list of clubs in Havana and Santiago as well as a list of popular Cuban bands have a look at city guide Cuba at Salsa Web!
From Domingo Sotos report: 'The party scene in Cuba had been vibrant. Drawn by the opportunity to see some of the world's premiere salsa groups, the discos had been packed and the bacchanal was in full throttle. Now, after a period of closures, they operate under severe scrutiny and absurd strictures. "In Cuba things are always changing, if you come back tomorrow it will be different." '
Currently the most popular Son/Salsa groups in Cuba are:
I was happy to realize, that even the very young people still prefer their own Caribbean music instead of the commercial Pop/Rock/Techno/Disco which is heard in the rest of the world!
Compact Discs (CDs) of the current popular groups are very expensive in Cuba: 20 Dollars, which is the same price as here in Europe! The CD-shop in the Palacia de Artesania in Havana has a good selection. Older CDs cost about 15 Dollars. Lucky are the fans in the US where CDs are so very cheap!!
In Havana I stayed in the
villas of Hotel Commodoro (beautifully situated bungalows) in
Miramar and in Hotel Inglaterra (Havana vieja). Although Hotel
Inglaterra is very central and has a nice hall I cannot recommend
it because it is so old and has many rooms without windows. I had
such a room: air and light was bad! But from the roof garden you
have a wonderful view of Havana and a all-women-Son-orquesta :-) .
Some time ago I posted a part of this text in the Latin Music news group rec.music.afro-latin. In my posting I focussed on the musical side of my trip. Neither in my posting nor here in these pages I have the space to elaborate on all the social aspects of Cuba. For some of the readers, especially some Cubans in the US, my posting was too "cheery". A controversy arose about tourism in Cuba. But I am not the one to judge about Cuba's problems. And I did not want to start one of these endless political discussions which do not belong in that news group.
Of course I not only experienced Son,
sun and sand. Also I saw the poverty, the problems and the
huge contrasts. The lucky one who has Dollars can buy everything
in the Dollar-shops. But the Peso-shops are completely empty!
There is light and shadow in Cuba. I knew Cuba's problems before
I went there. And everybody who is interested in Cuba should
inform him/herself about the daily life situation.
I got to know a few Cubans and tried to support them by leaving
them some of my clothes, soap, etc, buying goods from them,
inviting them to restaurants. A lot of goods are welcome in Cuba!
Prostitution is a problem in Cuba and one of the disadvantages of tourism. As a male tourist in Cuba I was approached by prostitutes in some of the night spots. That annoyed me. I made suggestions to the travel guide how he should inform the tourists so that they are not told lies by the prostitutes. The Jineteras even play their tricks on upright tourists: they use them to get into the disco or the hotel hall. From their appearance one can not know that these girls are prostitutes. I think as a tourist one should be careful not to support these women to earn more money than a Cuban teacher or doctor!
Okay, these are only some of the many
impressions which I experienced in Cuba. If you have specific
questions feel free to email me. If you have been to Cuba, too,
why don't you share your experiences with me and the other people
on the net?
I love Cuba and certainly will come back! The island has much to
offer, especially the land and the people. They are not rich but
the do have an extremely rich culture! And I think it will help
the people when you go and visit their country.